This week Chronicle restaurant critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan highlights several standout dishes, including an herbal tea with a Michelin pedigree. The collection showcases refined, inventive plates that blend luxury ingredients with thoughtful technique. Notably, caviar and antelope appear among the offerings, reflecting the restaurant’s bold approach to flavor and texture.
The critic emphasizes the emotional resonance of the menu, suggesting that the best courses deliver more than novelty; they convey a sense of place, seasonality, and chef’s perspective. While some dishes push boundaries, others balance innovation with harmony, inviting diners to savor contrasts in aroma, acidity, and mouthfeel.
The broth, a recurring point of curiosity, is praised for its depth and clarity, inviting readers to consider how a seemingly simple component can carry a full narrative when treated with respect and precision. The piece also notes the service, ambiance, and pacing as integral to the overall experience, underscoring that the meal is as much about journey as destination.
Overall, Fegan’s favorites underscore a menu that rewards curiosity and patience, where every course builds toward a cohesive, memorable impression.
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